LAST UPDATED: May 8th, 2015
When it comes to launching an arrow downrange there is no such thing as being too precise, or too picky. After all, when you’re dealing with the mystical flight of the arrow, the Devil is often in the details. So, it only makes sense that we examine our bow-rig with a meticulous eye; looking for any areas that could use some improvement in order to squeeze out one more ounce of tag-filling accuracy. One such area is that of the arrow.
Now, a great deal of bowhunters make sure they select properly spined shafts for their setup. But beyond that, not much thought is given to the arrow. That is, until it is time to replace field points with broadheads. Typically, it is then that problems arise, nerves are tested, and profanities spew forth from normally humble tongues. I know because I have been there.
Mass produced arrows may be appealing to the time conscious bowhunter, but for those wanting the utmost in accuracy a little something extra is required.
And, while much can be done to get broadheads to fly more closely to that of your field point, much of it focuses on the bow and the equipment attached to it. In my opinion, you would be doing yourself a great favor if you concentrated more on the heart of the matter…..the arrow. Let’s start with raw shafts. You can order your arrows already made and fletched if that is what you desire. However, for me, I like to purchase raw shafts and then, with a few simple steps, build my very own, precisely made, deadly accurate arrows….one at a time. When I am done, I guarantee the 12 arrows in my hand will be more accurate than any dozen you can buy in a store or online.
What could prettier than a dozen arrow shafts awaiting perfection?
When I receive my raw shafts the first thing I do is cut them to the proper length. After that, the shafts are immediately prepared to be “squared-up”. This is easily achieved with a paint marker and a steady hand. Placing the paint marker against the cut surface of the shaft, I paint the entire area where the insert will eventually be placed. In addition, I remove the nock from the other end of the shaft and repeat the process. Once both ends of the shaft have been painted, I place it in a special piece of equipment designed specifically for squaring arrow shafts.
It may not be noticeable to the naked eye, but arrow shafts are not as perfectly “square” as you might think. The G5 ASD will prove it.
The Arrow Squaring Device (ASD) made by G5, is the perfect tool for the job. Placing the arrow in the ASD until the shaft end is pressed firmly against the cutting head, I simply rotate the arrow shaft while the cutting surface shaves away imperfections. When I am done, what I have will be a perfectly squared arrow shaft. The purpose of the paint is to let me know when my arrow is square.
The unique cutting surface of the G5 ASD will square up your arrow in no time at all.
Just be sure to clean the inside of the shaft before gluing the insert in. This will ensure maximum adhesion. I like to use denatured alcohol.
After turning the arrow for a few moments, I stop and look at the paint. I will immediately notice that some of it is gone and some is not. This is due to the end of the arrow not being cut perfectly square. Therefore, I keep rotating and shaving off the imperfections until all of the paint is gone. It is then that I know for certain that the shaft end is square and ready for the insert to be glued in.
Don’t just stop with the arrow shaft. Take things a step further and focus on the one part of the arrow the broadhead makes contact with….the insert.
And don’t forget about the one part of the arrow that the bow touches….the nock.
Not only is it important to square up the shaft, but the insert must be squared as well. This can be accomplished in the same manner as the shaft. The only differences are that I must use a black permanent marker (instead of paint) on the insert surface to check for “imperfections”, and I must also rotate the ASD head to the aluminum cutting side (one side is for carbon, the other for aluminum). Once I have squared both the insert and the nock end of the shaft, and then installed and squared the insert…..I am done!
Inserts that are perfectly square should have no trace of the permanent marker on them.
The Big Question
Why is this procedure so important? Well, when it comes time to replace your field points with broadheads, you must understand that the more closely your nock, arrow and broadhead all follow the same straight-line path, the truer your arrow will fly once a broadhead is attached.
By design, broadheads are going to affect the flight of your arrow in a different manner than field points. This is why it is imperative that all of your arrow pieces be perfect. Pictured here is the Mathews Z7 about to launch the Bloodrunner by NAP.
It may seem insignificant, this notion of keeping all components of the arrow in a straight-line, but when you place “wings” on the front of your shaft, any deviance from this established nock, arrow, broadhead “centerline” will essentially cause wind to hit the arrowhead from the side. This will result in erratic arrow flight; similar to the first time you test shoot your broadheads and get less than desirable results.
The problem could be bow tune, fletching orientation, arrow rest performance, or any number of things. However, you should strive to eliminate the most likely culprit….a poorly made arrow whose insert, arrow and nock are not precisely in-line with one another.
